Corn: A-Maize-ing Part II

In the last edition of "Food For Thought" we began our tour of the amazing world of maize, i.e., corn. The amazing thing about corn is its sundry uses. Last week we discussed the history of corn cultivation, the various types, and the non-culinary uses. Let's now delve into corn selection and cookery, and the multitude of food-related ways that corn can be utilized.

First up is selecting corn. Sally forth to any major supermarket during corn's peak season, (May through September), and you will find a large bin of corn, inevitably strewn with ears partially husked by consumers who have inspected the lot. Supermarkets detest this practice and some will not allow it. Indeed, no other vegetable or fruit is peeled before purchasing. I have to agree with the supermarkets on this one.

Corn degrades at one of the fastest rates in the vegetal world. Immediately after being picked the natural sugars begin converting to starch. Even one day can produce a noticeable reduction in the sweetness and flavor. This is why it is vital to consume corn as close to harvesting as possible.

There are a number of problems with strip-searching corn in the modern supermarket. First, you'll rarely find really fresh corn in a supermarket. By the time its harvested, packed, loaded on a truck, shipped to the store, languishes in the storage room waiting for someone to notice it, and is finally shelved by some listless teenager, "fresh" is no longer a consideration. So to some degree, supermarket inspection of corn is a moot point. Second, once the ear is hulled degradation accelerates even further, not to mention moisture loss and exposure to external pathogens and parasites. If the opened ear is rejected, most likely it will end up in the garbage, (since ensuing customers will be highly reluctant to purchase it). Moreover, I'm not sure many people even know what they're looking for since I find many partially stripped ears that have been shunned with no discernable anomalies to the kernels themselves. But now the supermarket is stuck with countless ears that won't be purchased because they're already open, or have deteriorated from being opened. They have to make up for this loss. How ironic that we all end up paying more for corn due to the rejects that may have been serviceable in the first place.

If you know what to scrutinize it's really not necessary to shed the husks to identify acceptable corn. Look for bright green husks devoid of undue colorations or brown spots. The stem should be form and moist. The tassel of silk should be yellow or golden brown, silky and glossy. (You're not likely to encounter this latter indicator of quality in a supermarket, since the tassel is one of the first things to degrade). Finally, the kernels should be plump, firm, and devoid of gaps. You can judge the kernels by palpating the husks with your fingers. One final test does require access to the kernels directly, namely, popping them with a fingernail should produce a juicy, milky-colored emission. But, if all the other non-peeling indicators of quality are present, this final test is practically superfluous.

The culinary uses of corn are seemingly endless. Cornstarch is a very popular thickener for all kinds of concoctions such as puddings, sauces, soups, Asian dishes, and many others. Corn oil, high in the benevolent polyunsaturated fat, and possessing a high smoke point, is ideal for frying. Cornmeal and corn flour (finely ground cornmeal), are the building blocks for a panoply of products: corn muffins, tortillas, taco shells, polenta, grits, hominy, cereals, (such as the quintessential Corn Flakes), corn bread, porridges, and many, many other dishes throughout the world. And of course, how can I even consider outlining the uses of corn without paying reverence to corn whiskey, particularly bourbon.

Then there are the myriad of non-processed means of enjoying corn: One of my favorite uses of summer corn is a grilled corn and tomato salad. Grilling really intensifies the natural flavor of the corn. Grill it with the husks off. Direct contact with the grates will produce greater flavor than when blanketed in the husk. Simply brush some ears with oil, place it on the grill and give it a quarter turn as each side starts to sear. Cut off the kernels and mix them with diced tomato and cilantro and a dressing of olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Or make a standard salsa, add corn and employ it as a side dish.

But of course, nothing beats good ole fashioned corn on the cob, an American tradition not widely practiced in Europe. Simply drop the ears in a large pot of already boiling water for 5 minutes, (or even better, grill them as for the corn and tomato salad above). Don't bother adding sugar to the water, although you can add salt if you like. Remove the ears, slather them with a cloying amount of butter, and a generous sprinkle of salt. It doesn't get any better than this.

CORN SOUP

1 medium onion, chopped
1 small yellow bell pepper, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
4 tablespoons butter
Salt and white pepper to taste
5 ears of corn, stripped of their kernels
3 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup heavy cream or milk
Frank's cayenne pepper sauce to taste
Dried red pepper powder, to taste

Sweat the vegetables at medium heat in the butter with the salt and pepper until soft. Add corn and chicken stock, bring to a boil, cover, and then simmer for 20 minutes. Puree in a blender for a minute. Strain into a clean pot, pushing as much as you can of the remaining pulp through the strainer. Add milk, reheat the soup and add cayenne pepper sauce and/or dried red pepper powder to taste. Serve with warm tortillas for dunking in the soup.

A-Maize-ing Part I

About the Author:
Mark R. Vogel is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City. He also has a BA in economics and Master's and Doctorate degrees in psychology. Over the past two decades he has worked as a waiter, bartender, chef and manager in an array of restaurants. Currently he is a culinary instructor and food writer. His column "Food for Thought" is published in a variety of periodicals and websites. Be sure to check out Mark's website www.foodforthoughtonline.net

En Papillote

In 1840 Antoine Alciatore established Antoine's Restaurant in the French Quarter of New Orleans. A bastion of traditional French Creole cuisine, and still thriving to this day, Antoine's has the distinction of being the oldest family run restaurant in the United States. Antoine's is first and foremost known for its superior food, but also its patronage by famous dignitaries and celebrities, New Orleans memorabilia, and an extensive wine list. But, returning to the food, it is not solely the quality that sets them apart, but their inventiveness. Antoine's has been the birthplace of many classic dishes such as Oysters Rockefeller, Eggs Sardou, Pigeonneaux Paradis, and for the purposes of our present discussion, Pompano en Papillote. Pompano, a saltwater fish of the Jack family, is considered by many to be America's finest fish. It has a succulent, fine-textured and delicatly tasting flesh, and an equally juicy price tag to boot.

En papillote is a method of cooking, most specifically a variant of steaming, whereby food is encased in parchment paper and placed in an oven. Herbs, vegetables, and some kind of fluid, such as a sauce, wine, stock, etc., is included. Thus, the natural juices of the food in conjunction with the added fluids, produce steam which cooks the food within its encapsulated parchment pouch. The intermingling of the steam and the various ingredients produces a wonderful hegemony of flavor.

Steaming is a wet heat cooking method whereby heat is transferred to the food via conduction, (from direct contact with the water vapor), and convection, (from the upward motion of the water vapor). Steaming is a highly effective mode of transferring energy yet gentle at the same time. Thus, it is ideal for more delicate meats and vegetables which would be damaged by the greater agitation and disruptive force of boiling or simmering water. Moreover, steaming doesn't leach away nutrients like immersion methods do since the food is not surrounded by roiling liquid. Steaming, be it en papillote or not, is also a low-fat method of cooking that nevertheless produces tender and delicate results.

Fish is the quintessential en papilllote choice but as stated above, other delicate meats, such as shellfish or chicken, can be employed as well. Because of the brief cooking duration avoid thick cuts of meat. Fillets of fish or chicken breasts under an inch are the best option. However, fillets that are too thin can start to disintegrate. Non-oily white fleshed fish worked best: snapper, sole, flounder, tilapia, etc. For very thick pieces of meat, sear on each side in a pan before being placed in the pouch to steam. Or just butterfly them and skip the sauté pan. Vegetables should be finely julienned or sliced very thin so they finish cooking simultaneously.

Traditionally a large heart shaped piece of parchment paper is employed, but a rectangle will suffice. The size of course depends on the amount of food. Use your judgment and err on the large side since it's easier to trim than come up short. If you don't have or can't find parchment paper, aluminum foil will also work. Place the main item in the center, then sprinkle the vegetables, herbs, seasonings, etc. over it. Next, fold the paper/foil in half over the food and begin folding and crimping the edge all the way around to create a tight seal. Just before you have completely encased the food, pour the liquid into the pouch and then perform the final crimp. Place the packet on an oiled baking sheet or a stainless steel platter and place in a preheated oven according to your recipe's instructions. Although it is a little tricky to determine doneness precisely, if using parchment, when the pouch has fully puffed and is browning, it should be done. Again, follow your particular recipe and adjust accordingly in future trials.

Due to my unyielding fealty to logic, I must confess that cooking your food in parchment paper is not absolutely necessary. Identical results can be produced with any standard cooking vessel with a snug fitting lid. A primary motivation for en papillote's creation and continued use is culinary pageantry. The dish was originally intended for a Brazilian balloonist at a banquet in his honor. As the food steams, the parchment paper inflates. The impressive "balloon" of parchment encased food is then immediately served to the guests. The climatic finish occurs when each diner pops his balloon and expels the steam and enticing aromas. You can decide for yourself whether to go the parchment route or whether you think en papillote is just, I can't resist, full of hot air, and opt for a covered baking dish.

RED SNAPPER EN PAPILLOTE

2 (8-oz), red snapper fillets
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil, as needed
1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 small carrot, finely julienned
1 celery stick, finely julienned
Butter, cubed, to taste
Chopped parsley, as needed
Lemon juice, to taste
4 oz. chicken or fish broth*
1 oz. dry white wine

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Season the fillets with salt and pepper. Cut the parchment paper into a heart shape large enough to hold the fish and vegetables. Lightly brush the inside of the paper with oil. Place the fish on one side of the paper. Place the vegetables on top of the fish. Dab with little cubes of butter, sprinkle with parsley and a few squirts of lemon and season with a little extra salt and pepper. Begin folding and crimping the paper to make a nicely sealed edge. Just before making the final seal, leave enough room to pour the broth and wine into the packet. Finish the seal and place on an oiled baking sheet. Place baking sheet in the oven for 10-12 minutes depending on the thickness of the fillets.

* The traditional fluid for fish en papillote is veloute, a white chicken or fish stock thickened with roux, (a cooked mixture of butter and flour).

About the Author:
Mark R. Vogel is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City. He also has a BA in economics and Master's and Doctorate degrees in psychology. Over the past two decades he has worked as a waiter, bartender, chef and manager in an array of restaurants. Currently he is a culinary instructor and food writer. His column "Food for Thought" is published in a variety of periodicals and websites. Be sure to check out Mark's website www.foodforthoughtonline.net